The moody fit-out is inspired by the original Chinese Tuxedo, a fine diner that opened in the 1880s and channelled turn-of-the-century Shanghai glamour. The wine and beer selection is on the pricey side – like the menu in general – and is accompanied by a playful China-inspired cocktail list. Same goes for the classic Shanghai dumplings. Nearly every table, on the other hand, orders the eggplant dish. “If you're getting returns,” he says, “you know you have to take it off.” But people unfamiliar with the recipe worried it was undercooked. “I thought that was one of our most beautiful dishes,” he says mournfully. His personal favourite – a Hainanese white-cut chicken, brined and steamed to keep the fat soft under the skin – didn’t last. “We're turning out food we like,” says Buckingham. The New York Times restaurant critic made Chinese Tuxedo a rare Critic’s Pick in February.ĭishes are constantly under review – the overall effect is of a very Australian willingness to play around. An emphasis on carefully sourced produce, attractive plating and thoughtful portion sizes comes from his time in Australia.ĭonnelly has reimagined neighbourhood takeout staples, a standout being the Pete Wells-approved eggplant: battered in tapioca, fried for a light, crispy finish, served with a garlic and peanut caramel. The menu includes regional dishes from all over China – in particular Cantonese classics, such as honey-glazed char siu and roasted duck – while also drawing on Donnelly’s Thai and Japanese training. We're not the first people to make this food.” We kind of do what we want, but we want it to be thoughtful of where come from. “It was important to me that the food was legit. “I like food culture that honors and recognises authenticity,” Buckingham says. ![]() ![]() He held test dinners with traditional Cantonese chefs and new up-and-comers, but missed what he’d experienced in Australia: a generation of cooks informed by both the high-end possibilities of Flower Drum and the feel-good flavours of Russell Street. “I knew this neo, thoughtful prestige Chinese had a space in New York, but I couldn't find anybody who could cook it,” Buckingham says. So when Melburnian Eddy Buckingham and local contractor and restaurant consultant Jeff Lam opened Chinese Tuxedo in December last year, they were on a mission to change the way New Yorkers thought about eating out at Chinese restaurants. Sleek, sceney venues serving elevated Chinese food have not, traditionally, been a thing in New York. Hanging lights and clustered candles light up palm fronds and tall mirrors – an homage to the original restaurant, which operated on the same street until the 1920s. The restaurant – once an opera house and theatre – is full of leather booths and white marble rounds. Turn into the narrow street with a sharp bend spot an unassuming entrance and bar descend in dramatic fashion to a glamorous subterranean dining room.
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